The freezer thermistor is a temperature sensor located inside the freezer compartment. It measures the air temperature and provides feedback to the control board. The control board uses this temperature reading to regulate the compressor and refrigerant flow to maintain the target freezer temperature. If the thermistor is defective, it may fail to provide an accurate temperature reading to the control board. As a result, the freezer will be unable to maintain freezing temperatures. To test the thermistor, use a multimeter to check its resistance at various temperatures and compare to the resistance values listed on the tech sheet. If the resistance readings do not align with the spec, the thermistor is defective and needs to be replaced.
The freezer control board is the main electronic control center that regulates all of the electrical components in the freezer. It receives temperature input from the thermistor sensor and activates the compressor and evaporator fan accordingly to maintain the target freezer temperature. If the control board is malfunctioning, it may fail to properly activate the compressor and evaporator fan even when the thermistor sensor is indicating the freezer temperature is too warm. Without adequate compressor run times and evaporator fan circulation, the refrigerant system will not function properly to remove heat from the freezer compartment.
The condenser coils that are inside the freezer walls do not need cleaning. But if you can easily access the condenser coils from behind or underneath the freezer, you should clean them every 6 to 12 months. Dirty condenser coils cannot dissipate heat efficiently. This greatly lowers the cooling ability of the freezer. If you notice the condenser coils are dirty or have not been cleaned for a while, you should clean them.
The evaporator fan motor pulls air over the evaporator coils and circulates it in the freezer. If the evaporator fan motor stops working, the freezer will not cool. On most refrigerators, the fan motor does not run with the door open. To check the evaporator fan motor, open the freezer door then manually activate the freezer door switch. If turning on the door switch does not start the evaporator fan motor, while it should, the evaporator fan motor needs replacing.
The defrost heater assembly is an electrical heating element located inside the freezer compartment. It is designed to periodically turn on to melt away any frost or ice that has accumulated on the cooling coils over time. Buildup of frost on the coils acts as an insulator and reduces the efficiency of the freezer's cooling system. The defrost heater allows the frost to melt so it can drain away, restoring optimal operation of the cooling coils. If the defrost heater fails, ice will continue building up on the coils, inhibiting their ability to absorb heat from inside the freezer compartment. With impaired cooling coils, the freezer will be unable to maintain the proper below-freezing temperatures. To test the defrost heater, use a multimeter to check the resistance across the heater element terminals. Refer to the tech sheet for the specific ohm reading that indicates a good defrost heater for that model.
The condenser fan motor pulls air through the condenser and over the condenser coils. If it malfunctions, it cannot draw air through the condenser, preventing the refrigerator from cooling properly. First, inspect the fan blades for anything blocking them and ensure the blades spin freely. If the blades do not spin freely, the fan motor bearings are worn out and the motor needs replacing. If no obstructions are present and the blades spin freely, use a multimeter to check the motor for continuity. If there is no continuity, the condenser fan motor must be replaced.
The freezer door gasket is the rubber seal that runs around the perimeter of the freezer door. It is responsible for forming an airtight seal when the door is closed. The gasket prevents warm air from entering the freezer compartment. If the gasket becomes cracked, torn, warped, or otherwise damaged, it can lose its ability to seal properly. Air gaps will then form, allowing warmer ambient air to seep into the freezer each time the door is closed. This influx of warm air introduces heat into the freezer compartment, forcing the cooling system to run longer in order to maintain the set temperature. If the compromised door gasket cannot be replaced or repaired, the constant entry of warm air will overburden the freezer's cooling capabilities. Gradually, the freezer will no longer be able to sustain freezing temperatures inside.
A freezer filter drier is a device used in refrigeration systems to filter and dry the refrigerant, protecting the system and its components by capturing and absorbing water particles as well as harmful solid substances and stopping them from cycling. Over time, the filter can become clogged with debris or saturated with moisture. A restricted filter drier impedes proper refrigerant flow through the system. Because the filter drier is part of the sealed refrigerant system, it can only be replaced by an EPA certified technician in order to safely recover and recharge the refrigerant.
The temperature control thermostat directs power to the compressor, evaporator fan motor, and condenser fan motor. If it malfunctions, the refrigerant system will not turn on and the freezer will not cool. To check if the thermostat is faulty, turn it from the lowest to highest setting and listen for a "click." If you hear the click, the thermostat is likely fine. If you don't hear a click, use a multimeter to test for continuity on the thermostat. If there is no continuity, the temperature control thermostat is defective and requires replacement.
The user control and display board could be faulty, but this is uncommon. Control boards are often misdiagnosed, so prior to replacing it, ensure more frequently defective parts are checked first. Before deciding the control and display board needs replacing, verify other components are working properly. Only after ruling out problems with more common parts should the control and display board be replaced. While possible, control board issues are rare, so don't replace this part until determining the other freezer components are functioning correctly
Control boards are often incorrectly diagnosed as the issue. Before replacing the main control board, first check parts that typically fail more frequently. Only after verifying that all other components are functioning properly should the main control board be replaced. Ruling out more common problems first prevents unneeded control board replacement. While the main control board could be defective, it is not typically the culprit. Take time to check other potentially faulty parts first before deciding the main control board needs replacing. Replace it only after determining the other freezer components are working correctly.
The compressor pumps and compresses the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. If it stops working, the freezer will not cool. However, a faulty compressor is uncommon. First verify more commonly defective parts before replacing the compressor. Only after confirming other components function properly should the compressor be checked. Only an EPA certified tech should replace any sealed system components.
The most frequent cause of freezer frost buildup is an issue with the defrost system. The defrost heater activates periodically to melt frost accumulating on the freezer evaporator coils. If the defrost heater fails to turn on, frost continues building up until the coils are entirely frosted over. To check if the defrost heater is faulty, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If there is no continuity, the defrost heater needs replacing. On most chest freezers, the evaporator coils are concealed in the walls. Some upright freezers have shelves housing the coils. These kinds of coils require manual defrosting if frost accumulates heavily.
The freezer's start device, such as a start relay, supplies power to the compressor. If the start device malfunctions, the compressor may work irregularly or not at all. Without the compressor activating, the freezer cannot cool. To check if the start device is faulty, unplug the freezer and remove the device from the compressor. Use a multimeter to test for continuity between the start and run terminals. If there is no continuity or the device smells burnt, replacement is needed.
First, verify the freezer is plugged into the wall outlet and there is power to the receptacle. Plug a small appliance into the outlet to confirm it has power. If there is no power to the outlet, check the circuit breaker to ensure it has not tripped. A tripped breaker that cuts power to the outlet will prevent the freezer from turning on. If the outlet has power and the breaker is not tripped, the issue lies with the freezer itself rather than an external power supply problem.